Dip night. Probably the most exciting night of the whole rod building process. Soon our rod will be ready for the first fishing trip This is when the beautiful grain of the bamboo will be highlighted by the gloss of spar varnish. As with most areas of cane rod building, it's a bit intimidating at first because of the ease at which it can be screwed up. But eventually most makers work out a routine that works for them.

While there are many different ways to apply varnish, including by brush, hand rubbed, or even with a turkey baster, I've settled on a dip tube and slow constant extraction by motor as my method. This allows the surface tension to "pull off" the varnish and the result is as close to "glass-like" as can be achieved, IMO.

My "extraction motor" is a simple single D-cell battery operated device that a friend robbed from an old liquor store display. It's second purpose in life was to serve as a drying motor for saltwater epoxy flies and it served that purpose nicely until I started building rods. The key is a slow (3" to 4" per minute) and steady extraction:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12494&g2_serialNumber=1">

My "dip tube" is a simple 1" PVC pipe with a 1 1/2" reducer at the top. String is passed through an eyelet is the celling. This serves as my rod "gallow." The rod sections, including the varnished wraps, are now brushed lightly with OOOO steel wool:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12497&g2_serialNumber=1">

Next, we wipe down sections with mineral spirits to clean them of any residue or fingermarks:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12500&g2_serialNumber=1">

Ah, the markers mark! This better be neat because after people check the straightness of your rod, the second thing they'll look at is the marker's mark. I use the finest tipped pemanent marker I can find for this purpose:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12509&g2_serialNumber=1">

The ferrules are then protected with masking tape:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12506&g2_serialNumber=1">

The varnish is warmed to about 100 degrees by immersing the can into hot water. This makes the varnish less viscous, allowing it to flow better:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12521&g2_serialNumber=2">

The varnish is then carefully poured into the dip tube:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12524&g2_serialNumber=1">

The air bubbles are then allowed to dissipate:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12527&g2_serialNumber=1">

I then mist the immediate area with water vapor to settle dust:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12530&g2_serialNumber=1">

I hook up my butt section to a snap swivel and check the length against my dip tube to ensure that the cork grip will not be immersed in varnish:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12533&g2_serialNumber=2">

The rod section is then carefully lowered into the varnish of the dip tube and the motor base will be moved forward until the winding check just touches the surface of the varnish:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12536&g2_serialNumber=1">

The section is immediately and quickly extracted from the varnish, allowing the varnish to flow freely off the section's tip. Once the varnish starts dripping, the same process is repeated. :
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12541&g2_serialNumber=1">

On the third dip, the section is allowed to remain in the varnish for 2 minutes. Then the motor is started to begin the slow extraction process:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12547&g2_serialNumber=1">
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12553&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once the section is fully extracted from the varnish, it is placed in a drying cabinet. A 100 watt buld provides enough heat to promote the varnish curing process for 24 hours before the second and sometimes third coat of varnish is applied. The same process is followed for the tip sections:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12559&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once all sections are varnished and safely in the drying cabinet, I breath a sigh of relief, crack a Corona, and toast my good fortune:
<img src="http://flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12562&g2_serialNumber=1">

Great series. Thanks again for the effort.

Just to satisfy the curiosity of a finish geek, what brand of varnish do you use?

Thanks, CTW. I use Last 'n Last Marine & Door spar varnish.

When you said "Dip Night" I thought tim s was visiting. Sorry Matt had to say it before you did.

It's been an excellent series. I've really enjoyed it.

Ron

Joel...thanks for posting all the steps by steps....took the mystery out of how a boo is born.

Ron, that would be dipSHIT night.

rough crowd

Joel, you really made a beautiful rod. I have read all post in this series and really appreciate all the work you put into this. The winner will certainly have a special rod and again it benefits a great cause. Before I got into EMS I worked in the cabinet field and really liked working with wood. That passion of wood working surfaced again while reading these posts. Some day I will own a cane rod. Great job you should really be proud!

Firefly