I was never really interested in "assembling" graphite fly rods because guide wrapping is the main job, and I didn't much care for that particular task. While it still is not my favorite part of bamboo rod building, I've grown to dislike it less.

My first cane rod took me twelve hours to wrap all three sections...and it still looked like crap! Fortunately, I've learn a few tricks along the way. The problem with my first cane rod wrapping experience is that the varnish was applied one day and then I was told to wrap the guides the next. I found out later that the varnished blank must be given sufficient time to cure, which can take a week or more, otherwise the thread will cut into the tacky varnish and it will be impossible to burnish (pack tightly) the wraps. It was a very frustating experience.

I described my problem to master rod maker Scott Chase at Superboo a few years ago and he suggested wrapping the guides on raw bamboo, varnishing the guide wraps with several coats, and then dipping the whole rod in varnish. I have had far less varnish heartaches since I heeded Scott's sage advice. Thanks, Scott.

The main difference between wrapping a graphite rod and a bamboo rod is that graphite rodmakers seem to be shooting for a bulbous, almost football-like shaped wrap, using size A nylon thread and 1 coat epoxy finishes. While that look is okay for graphite, it looks terrible on a bamboo rod. Most cane rod makers prefer a more subtle, flat look that is best achieved with 4/0, or better yet, 6/0 silk thread. Darker colors are problematic for beginners because they hide no evil. Any area not tightly burnished will show unsightly gaps and cause agony for the builder.

The other key to wrapping 6/0 silk thread is magnification, especially for us ol' duffers. I now use my Orvis 5x cheaters for the process.

I typically start the wrapping process with the hook tendor. My preference is a "saddle & ring" style, as opposed to the conventional U-shape style. While saddle & Ring are a bit more challenging to wrap, I really think they add a classic look to a rod.

The first task is to file the "feet" of the guides to provide a smooth silk thread tranisition from the cane up on to the metal. I start the thread with a few turns over itself and then use masking tape to secure the hook tendor in place:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12425&g2_serialNumber=2">

When I reach the saddle, I lift the front foot up so I can wrap under it. The ring is now put in place and held back with a piece of thread:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12428&g2_serialNumber=1">

Each turn is packed snugly back against the last using a burnishing tool. For this purpose, I prefer an over-sized needle glue into a hollowed section of bamboo to create a bodkin.

I prefer the Garrison-style guide spacing, which puts a guide tightly against the female ferrule, thus creating a fulcrum point:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12431&g2_serialNumber=1">

Wrapping up onto the female ferrule is a bit challenging for a beginner as well, but as long as proper feathering of the metal tabs was done beforehand, it's actually is quite simple:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12434&g2_serialNumber=1">

The wraps are secured by a whip finish. Before you complete the last 5 or 6 turns, a loop of thread is place under a wrap. The wrap is continued for the final turns and then cut. The tab end is put through the loop and then pulled snugly under the previous five or six wraps:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12437&g2_serialNumber=1">

While some enjoy the look of jewel-like agate stripping guides, I prefer an understated nickel silver guide with a carbide ring. Again, it's very important to taper the feet of the guides to provide smooth transition from the bamboo up on to the metal foot:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12440&g2_serialNumber=1">

<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12443&g2_serialNumber=1">

All my snake guides are wrapped to exactly 1/4". A light pencil mark on the cane can be used for the right length:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12455&g2_serialNumber=1">

Garrison despised tipping his wraps as he saw it as a totally unnecessary and comestic exercise. According to Carmichael's book, Garrison would only tip-wrap rods for two close friends, and he bitched and complained through the whole process. It can be infuriating, but, personally speaking, I think it adds a nice touch to a rod. The key I've found is to wet the thread first, wrap exactly fives snug turns over a whipping loop, and not worrying about burnishing the wraps until the end of the process:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12446&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once all tab ends are pulled tightly, I can use my needle to burnish the five wraps snugly against the original wraps. The wetted thread will dry very tight.
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12452&g2_serialNumber=2">

Now it just a repetious process until all guides are wrapped:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12458&g2_serialNumber=1">

Because most tiptops will have to be replaced eventually due to wear, they are typically secured with a glue that is easily melted with heat. Hot glue guns work perfect for this application. (Thanks for the tip Hunter & Bearbutt):
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12461&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once completed, the wraps are passed through a alcohol lamp flame for a few seconds to remove any frayed ends. Alcohol burns much cleaner than a match or candle, so there is no soot to soil the wraps:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12467&g2_serialNumber=1">

The wraps are now ready for varnish:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12464&g2_serialNumber=1">

Thinned varnish is now applied to the wraps. While some prefer a brush for this process, I like using the same oversized needle:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12476&g2_serialNumber=1">

Any varnish overrun can be absorbed with a clean section of thread:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12470&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once all wraps have a single coat of varnish, they allowed to dry for 1 hour, rotating 180 degrees every 10-15 minutes. Then a second coat of varnish is added:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=12473&g2_serialNumber=1">

The wraps are allowed to dry for 24 hours, then a third coat is added. This process is continued for a fourth and sometimes fifth coat, until the wraps are almost glass-like.

Not at all, Joel--I remember that rod well. There were a couple of gaps in the wraps, a couple of glue lines, one or two nodes a little too close to each other for comfort--but for a first rod it had me wowed with how it cast, and each one thereafter got better and better.

Maybe I missed it somewhere--how does one buy tickets for the rod raffle for this baby? The TU camps are a great cause--maybe having a link for the tickets, and for donating stuff for the camp (reels, lines, tying stuff) might be good?

bb

You are very kind, Joseph, but by the time you saw that first rod, I had already refinished the guides once . The second attempt only took ten hours and upgraded the wraps from atrocious to merely crappy.

One interesting fact about first attempts at making a bamboo fly rod is that as long you stick to a time-tested taper and come reasonably close the intended dimensions, it’s very difficult to make a “badâ€

The raffle tickets for this bamboo rod will go on sale Feb. 6th at Superboo.

Tickets will be sold until the winning # is drawn on Friday July 2nd at the luncheon on the last day of the Maine TU Trout Camp.

Registered Maine Guide Sean McCormick (Blue Heron Guide Service) has donated as a second prize a fly fishing trip during the 2010 season on the Kennebec River.

Tickets will be $1 per ticket and $5 for 6 tickets. The ME TU Council will have a booth at the Presque Isle Sportsman Show (March 27th and 28th) and the Maine Sportsman Show (April 2nd, 3rd and 4th)

Tickets will also be available through ME TU Chapter officers.

Joel, This series is simply fantastic, I anxiously await each segment anticipating the photographs and text explaining each step. Have assembled several graphite rods over the past but nothig compared to the expertise illustrated in your works here. Awesome job, thanks for taking the time and making the effort to share the cane rod building expeince with us all. Thanks, KCHRLSE

KChrsle,

Thank you so much for your encouraging words. I figured most would be disinterested by this point in the process, but it's nice to know some are still finding it to be informative and enjoyable.

BTW, how did a guy from Hudson, WI, find this site?

joel

joela,
I think you have more people interested than you think. We might not post how much we like it(maybe we should), but its always the first link I hit when I come on. Keep it up! Wish I had the tools to build my own. Love watching it get done though.

Diggin' both of the DIY threads going on right now.

Joel, Grew up in Maine, have family in Winthrop area on Cobbsee, and have partmership camp in Jim Pond Twnsp up past Eustis. Get back every fall for a Cast & Blast with my dad, brothers and freinds. Have lived all over the US and fished most of the big name waters in the US, Yellowstone, Green, Madison, Firehole, Snake, Columbia, Ga northern Mtns, most of PA spring creeks and freestones, Adirondaks, salt of Jersey coast, Tarpon in FL, Bones in Mexico, Steelhead Ohio, but Maine is still home and Brookies are my favorite with LL a close second. Bucket list is Labrador Brookies. Currently flailing away in western WI, and SE MN for some fairly nice Browns, a few Rainbows, and Brookies, most people think of this area as walleye, musky, northern terrain but we do OK on the trout, smallies are big for FF here. Thanks, KCHRLSE

Impressive resume, kchrlse!

If you ever find yourself in need of a bamboo rod, I understand Dave Norling of Minnesota does beautiful work. Here's a great short video highlighting his craft: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cDeeDIqvQ4w

kchrsle,

If you go to the Greatwaters expo in Chicago, you'll find Don Schroeder there, and he usually has a few rods you can cast--he's a great builder, an all-around nice guy, and a trip to his shop is a memorable experience. Sometimes the expo will have someone selling used cane--but I'm not sure about the situation this year.

bb

Joel, Thanks for the info, checked Dave's site out and he certainly is a master. Hopefully he attends the MidWest Fly Fishing show in March and I can view his wares. I am leaning toward a Maine builder for sentiment and tradition. Wish I could attend Super Boo. If someone takes video of the event we could attend vicariously. Thanks, KCHRLSE

BB, I have seen Schroeder at the MN Midwest Show and he is a nice guy, I have not cast any of his rods however and will make it a point this year. Looking for a relatively fast rod, 4 wt, 7.5. Interesting piont made by Dave that he does not heat temper or flame his rods. Thanks, KCHRLSE

My favorite (so far) 7.5 ft, #4, is the Payne 100. But it's more of a "moderate action, classic cane feel" rod. Wonderful for delicate wet and dry fly presentations, but definitely not fast. I wonder if hollow-building that taper might speed it up a bit....

One of the interesting aspects of bamboo is that each rod is typically very receptive to several line designations. It might change the rods's action slightly (a moderate 5 weight might beome a moderate-fast 4 weight, for example) but very little else is lost in the translation.

For kicks, I just took the TU project rod (a 7.5 ft, #5) out in the yard (er, snow field) for a trial run with a DT4 Sylk line and it performed very nicely. I'd call the action somewhere between fast & very fast. A winning raffle ticket may get you just the rod you seek, kChrlse.

A rule of thumb many go by as far as what weight to use on bamboo has to do with the anticipated distance of your casts. For upclose fishing (10-25 ft), you might want to "overline" your rod by one size. For more typical fishing distances (20-60 ft), you would probably stick with the rod's original line designation.

joel

Joel, Thanks for the feedback, how would I purchase raffel ticket if unable to attend Super Boo? It would be unbelievable to win that rod. WOW. Thanks, KCHRLE

KCHRLE,

Check your PM re: raffle tickets.

joel