When I got the bamboo bug a few years back, I did some research to decide the best approach I should take to build rods. I read about the Morgan Hand Mill (MHM), which was designed and marketed by Tom Morgan, former owner of the Winston Rod Company, and I quickly realized it was exactly what I was seeking. Morgan is a brilliant man. Amazingly, he developed many of his ideas for the MHM over the past decade through the hands of others while suffering almost complete paralysis as a result of multiple sclerosis.

The MHM is an incredibly well-made and versatile rod making tool. I was espeicially interested in being able to hollow build my rods (more on that later), and the MHM is one of the best tools on the market for that purpose. Swelled butts, one piece rods up to 7 '9", hollow-building, star hollowing, bamboo ferrules, etc, almost anything is possible with the MHM. The beauty of the MHM is that as long as proper attention is given strip preparation, the unit mills both pith edges of a strip at the same time to a perfect 61.5 degree bevel.

Incidently, the reason for 61.5 degree, as opposed to 60 degrees angles is related to an old carpenter's trick. When six 61.5 degree strips are assembled, the outer edges touch first, greatly reducng the chance of creating unsightly gluelines.

While this is certainly not to say that the MHM is the only tool that will make a good rod, it meets my needs perfectly. If you want to learn more about the MHM, please check out Tom's site: http://www.troutrods.com. Tom's site provides an excellent overview of the MHM.

As opposed to the MHM, tapers are set on conventional Garriso-style planing forms by spreading two steel bars apart or pulling them together with push/pull bolt. The steel bars each have a mirrored 30 degree bevel on their inside edges, together creating a 60 degree bevel. The more the bars are spread apart, the larger the strip diameter will be at that station. A depth gauge with a point is used to set the taper at the various 5" stations. Strips can only be planed on one side at a time, so they have to be constantly flipped to get the correct bevel on each of the two interior pith edges and it can be difficult, especially for a beginner, to maintain perfect 60 degree angled strips. The enamel side is never planed with either a MHM or conventional forms because precious power fibers, which are most plentiful at the surface just beneath the protective enamel, would be removed. The power fibers are what gives bamboo its famous strength and elasticity.

Using conventional forms, however, the enamel or bark of the strip is sanded off just before final planing so the strips fit tightly in the form. Morgan recommends leaving the enamel on the strip when using a MHM until after final planing and glue-up. The taper is adjusted by about 0.002" to allow for the thickness of the enamel to be removed at the end of the porocess.

Conventional planing forms manufactured by JD Wagner:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6977&g2_serialNumber=1">

Conversely, a taper is set on the MHM anvil by push/pull screws located under the form that raise up the anvil to set the taper, again, measured at 5" stations with a depth gauge. The MHM is outfitted with two disposable carbide blades that are set exactly 61.5 degrees apart, allowing the MHM to planed, or, more accurately, scrape bamboo from both interior pith edges at the same time. The enamel side of the bamboo always remains face down against the anvil, protecting the valuable power fibers. Morgan Hand Mill:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6975&g2_serialNumber=1">

Okay, let's bevel some bamboo. The bamboo strips have been soaking for about 24 hours; which will make it much easier to bevel. Because the strips dry quicky in ambient air, they are remove one by one from the water. First we set the taper at 5" stations along the anvil using the push/pull screws to raise or lower the planing form:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6969&g2_serialNumber=1">

Next a wet strip is secured to the anvil with a screw:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6935&g2_serialNumber=1">

The cutting head is forced down by turning the lead screw on the top of the mill clockwise in small increments. One full rotation of the screw would equal 0.050", with each mark on the dial representing 0.002". Initially, the wet strips can be milled as much as 0.020" per pass:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6938&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once an apex is formed on the top of the strips, a hold down shoe attachment is added to help keep the strip in the proper milling position on top of the anvil:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6942&g2_serialNumber=1">

Milling the wet strips to a rough taper, approximately 0.070" over final taper, goes very quickly with wet strips:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6945&g2_serialNumber=1">

Peridocially strips are checked with a dial caliper, which is fitted with a 61.5 degree block for easy measuring of the angles:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6986&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once the first strip has been milled to the desired rough taper, the hardstop screw is set so the cutting head cannot be forced down any further. This makes cutting subsequent strips very easy; you just keep milling the next strip until you hit the hardstop. Because of this feature, strips milled on a MHM are amazingly consistent. The rough tapered strips are bundled together in the original defined order and held temporarily with masking tape:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6992&g2_serialNumber=1">

The rough taper strips are now bond together, using a Garrison-style binder, to prepare them for heat treating:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6954&g2_serialNumber=1">

Twenty pound test dacron backing, wrapped twice around rough strips, serves as the drive belt, rotating the strips forward as a hand wheel is turned. Meanwhile, a separate cotton glace string is pull off its spool and wrapped around the roughed bank proportional to the tension supplied by the drive belt. This will hold the strip together tightly during the heat treating phase to promote straighter strips:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6957&g2_serialNumber=1">

Once a rough tapered section is wrapped end to end, the drive belt is reversed (back to front) to rotate the section forward in the opposite direction. The strips are wrapped in both directions to prevent twisting:
<img src="http://www.flyfishinginmaine.com/gallery/main.php?g2_view=core.DownloadItem&g2_itemId=6960&g2_serialNumber=2">

The same approach for the 12 tip strips, using a different anvil because the tip strips are narrower.

Another very interesting segment. Since you are using blades that are essentially planing or as it appears scraping the blades must eventually dull. Do you sharpen them, which would change the distance relationship plus you could in essence sharpen at a strange angle. Or are the blades throw away after dulling? Or do you have some sort of template to re-mill the cutting edge?

Edited to add; I see there are three edges to each blade. Does that mean each blade has six cutting edges?

I read somewhere Tom's story and how his wife helped him do what he couldn't.

Ron

Hi Ron,

Another great question. The carbide bades are disposible ($12/set?). Each set of blades actually has six cutting edges, and they do wear slightly with usage. As you rotate the blades to fresh cutting edges, you mark the edges that are "spent". You really don't hvae to worry too much about it during rough beveling, especially when wet milling, provided that the cutting edges are of similar "dullness". If one edge is sharper than the other, the cut will favor one side of the strip (ask me how I know). Morgan recommends changing to new cutting edges for the final 0.015" of scraping on the final taper.

joel

Joel,

Having not worked with a MHM before, though I understand the concept- how is the taper set? Does the polypropylene under the strip get flexed to set the taper, or is the plastic sculpted to achieve the final taper (ie- the cutter head operating in a straight line while the bamboo is forced down upon the plastic. Or does the cutter head ride on an adjustable track below the poly/bamboo strip? I was re-reading some George Barnes last night and as he notes- there's more than one way to get the final product. So how does the MHM adjusted to set the taper?

Also- a new polypropylene section is required for each taper/section, no?

Hunter,

I provided enough information to give people a basic idea of how the MHM works, but I’m happy to provide as much detail as is requested.

The taper is set by raising the metal base of the milling form that supports the anvil up with push/pull bolts located on the underside of the base. The base is secured to an angle iron which holds the form tight against the edge of your work bench . The anvils are HDPE, and come initially slightly oversized.

The first thing that is done is a “truingâ€

Joel,

So the anvil is reused for multiple tapers- that's interesting. Do you need to reflatten the anvil each time a new taper is attempted? I'm wondering about going from a smaller taper dimension to something larger and whether or not the edges roll from extending outside the flat on the anvil.

Gee Hunter, Joel is very busy building the rod I'm going to win. Plus he is giving us a basic tutorial. After your question earlier that he answered I went over to the link he gave for Tom Morgan and it is very informative. I had read it quite some time ago. Now with Joel's tutorial and rereading T. Morgan's it all falls into place.

The cool thing is how various others have helped him improve the mill over time. An international collaborative effort.

Now I think I have an idea on how he achieves the hollowbuilt construction. I'll wait and see if my suspicions are correct.

Ron

No, no, Ron, I encourage questions. I figured by this point in the build I'd be pretty much alone. I'm thrilled there are still a few tagging along and actually want to know more.

Hunter's questions are very intuitive. The HDPE anvils only occassionally have to be reflattened, or "re-trued". Hunter is on the mark with his concern about the anvil providing proper support after a very fine tip is planed. That's about the only time I re-ture the anvil. Let's say I built a three weight w/ a 0.059" tip. If my next rod is a 6 weight with a 0.072" tip, I would probably re-true the anvil. Most of my rods are in the 4-6 weight range, and that usually doesn't require re-truing the anvil between rods. The MHM comes with 5 anvils: 1 rough butt; 1 rough tip; 1 finish butt; 2 finish tip. Some people use 1 finish tip for larger rods and 1 for smaller rods.

BTW, the actual build is ahead of the dog and pony portion of our show. Tonight I removed the binding cotton glace after glue-up was done yesterday, and I sanded the flats to expose the bamboo grain (power fibers) for the first time. A quick checks of the measurements shows she's spot on. Something tells me from the feel of the sections, even unassembled, that I'm gonna love this taper. I only have one question, "Can the maker buy a ticket?"

I called Tony Larsen in Minnesota tonight to order ferrules. Tony answered and when I said I wanted to place an ordered he said (in a very hard Minnesota accent), "Oh you've got the wrong department. Just a minute d'ere and I'll get the business department on the the line. HUN, IT'S FOR YOU!"

Nice to know real life MOM & POP establishments still exist.

joel

Joel,
Have you a rough idea the proportion of time spent doing finish work vs. construction. Say finish work would roughly be from after guide installation on. Construction from culm to guide placement. Just curious on ratio.

Ron

Rough Estimates:

Splitting: 2 hours
Strip Prep (straightening, squaring strips and node work): 4 to 5 hours
Rough taper: 3 hours
Secondary Taper: 3 hours
Heat treament: 1 hour
Final Taper: 2 hours
Glue-up: 2 hours
Sanding: 3 to 4 hours
Straightening: 1 to 2 hours
Ferrule work (prep, setting, & fitting): 2 to 3 hours
Grip and reel seat mounting: 1 to 2 hours
Wrapping: 6 hours (I'm slow)
Wrap varnish (4 to 5 coats): 2 to 3 hours
Varnish Dip (3 coats): 4 to 5 hours
Buffing: 1 hour
Rod sack creation: 1 hour
Total: ~40 hours

Add hollow-built option: 4 hours

Joel,

I know you have heard this from other members but these posts are awesome. Very, very cool. Looking forward to seeing the next steps and final product!

Zach

Ron-

If you think my questions were laborious, you really should avoid rod makers gatherings. We're an odd bunch and generally full of questions regarding the little stuff related to rod making. Heck- the rodmakers listserve probably sees 20 posts a day on average with most being on the minutia of building, well- after the 5 to 10 or so "grits" posts, etc...

Joel- Thanks for the info. I've been waiting to ask how those work and now have a much better understanding. I worked on final planing the tips on my Driggs last night. Still a bit to go before glue up. My timeline is significantly longer than your's however- as it takes me a LOT longer to go through the steps to glue up. Probably 2/3rds of the time to get to a ferruled blank (not including the year or more between heat treating and planing). As Bob Milardo once stated- "I want to see how long I can take to build a rod." The Driggs has been hanging around for almost 2 and half years since going through the rough beveler, though a few other rods were planed in between.

Now I'm wondering. Knowing the time it takes to hand plane a rod vs. "milling a rod". How did the masters of days gone by build their creations. I have never really read much on the subject. I know some had mills.

Building a prototype would constitute pretty much having to complete a rod except say for decorative additions. I can see where guide and wrapping and even finish coating could all have an impact.

Ron

While he MHM cuts the actual strip beveling time in half, I spend a disproportionate amount of time doing strip preparation as opposed to someone who hand planes his rods. Strip prep is critical to getting the best results using out a MHM.

As a MHM user, I actually occasionally encounter a minor bias from those who believe hand planing is the only acceptable method to create a first class bamboo rod. I showed one of my rods to an internationally known maker one time. He said he wouldn’t have believed I could produce such a rod after only one year of experience if I had not told him I used a MHM. To be honest, I’m still not sure if that was an insult or a compliment. Maybe both…

Interestingly, however, most of the great makers from the past, Leonard and Payne, for example, used milling machines to create their rods because it was the most cost effective method. There’s a famous story of the original Leonard milling machine being kept behind lock and key; only a precious few of the employees were allowed to ever see it.

George Black's "Casting A Spell" provides a pretty good overview of the history of commercial bamboo rodmaking as relates to our Maine routes that ventured out of state. Well worth the read for anyone interested in bamboo.