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PostPosted: January 9th, 2019, 5:13 pm 
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Joined: August 23rd, 2010, 6:49 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Rangeley Plantation, mooselookmeguntic
Would be interested to hear how most of you are rigging to fish larger streams/rivers when nymphing.

I usually take a standard 9 ft 5x leader and cut it back to about 4 ft, then add 5 ft of 4x flouro-carbon, then a couple feet of 5 or 6x depending on fly selection. Sometimes a dropper, sometimes not. sometimes split shot on the very end of the tippet... flies above as droppers. Indicator somewhere on the original 4 ft of tapered leader. usually the whole rig is 11-12 ft.

Tom


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PostPosted: January 9th, 2019, 5:29 pm 
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Joined: December 2nd, 2001, 1:00 am
Posts: 4168
Location: Ellsworth
I really prefer the right angle nymphing system.

My regular knotted leader outto either 2X or 1X........then the TMB, then straight 5X flouro to the first Nymph ( usually a largish PT......or Stonefly) then 18” of either 5X or 6X flouro to the smaller PT or Zebra Midge. Usually I put the bb shot above the upper Nymph, but this year I’m going to be dropping the shot on 6” of tippet below the dropper Nymph. I’ll see if that works better. Time on the water will tell.

Dave M

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PostPosted: January 9th, 2019, 6:48 pm 
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Joined: December 2nd, 2001, 1:00 am
Posts: 3355
Location: Vassalboro, Maine
After watching some vid on YouTube, I will be using Floro...so, from fly line, 4-5 feet of butt nylon, the 3X Floro to a #16 CDC P.T. . From the P.T., I go w/ what fits the need, but often it is a #20 PT/or a purple nymph.

Hutch

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PostPosted: January 9th, 2019, 8:28 pm 
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Joined: October 16th, 2002, 12:00 am
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Location: Windham
Once I went with the right angle nymph rig I hardly went back to anything else.
It drifts better, flies sink quicker, requires less mending, less weight, the flies stay in the zone longer, etc.

I use the butt section of an old tapered leader that’s about 2-3 feet long and tie on a white TMB.
From there I run 4sh ft of 4x flouro, nymph one, 2 ft of 5x flouro, nymph 2.

Typically a size 16 non-Beaded natural type nymph in a dark color, no flash, etc. Nymph 2 would be a size 18 glass bead nymph, ripped with a colored uni wire etc.

I figure I will let the fish see something natural then something like an attractor.

I’ve gone back and forth from this rig to a tapered leader rig and it outfishes it 3-1 on most days in the same run/river.

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"If you want to save a species, simply decide to eat it. Then it will be managed - like chickens, like turkeys, like deer, like Canadian geese. " Uncle Ted


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PostPosted: January 9th, 2019, 10:07 pm 
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Joined: February 14th, 2007, 1:00 am
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Location: New Hampshire
I won’t wven bother retyping. I almost use the identical setup as Fl above ^^^^^

Stonefly and caddis/Pt 95% of the time. Color and size vary.

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PostPosted: January 10th, 2019, 9:09 am 
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Joined: October 15th, 2003, 12:00 am
Posts: 1364
Location: Bangor
Used to start with 12' 3x to my heavy point fly- usually a triple tung black or brown stone with 18" dropper to a tiny shiny (lightning bug, pink copper john, bird of prey, red headed step child) Now 9 2x add 3' of 3x fluoro to a zirdle with split shot 8-10 above the fly and then a purple sparkle worm dropper- my only nymphing rig on big water last year- Madison, Gallatin, WB, EO- all fished on my 10' XP. I gave up nymph fishing though in June and elected to swing or fish tiny dries on my little glass rod.

The new rig is the Czech rig- working on that, but right now I have three leaders tied- 15', 18,' 21'- 12' rio euroymph leader ends at a tippet ring- 3' 4x fluoro to top fly, 18' 4x or 5x to bottom fly. Both flies are tunghead Czech style jig hook flies. Rod is Redington Hydrogen 10' 3 wt. It is amazing the touch you have.


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PostPosted: January 10th, 2019, 11:42 am 
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Joined: June 13th, 2016, 6:50 pm
Posts: 29
Location: Vassalboro
My rig is identical to Hutch's, because he ties most of mine on for me..........
Then I may go wild and use a Hot-shot PT, until all the orange tread comes off it and I'm back to a regular PT.
Gussa

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PostPosted: January 10th, 2019, 1:21 pm 
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Joined: December 4th, 2001, 1:00 am
Posts: 5434
Location: Near the tying bench
I don't see all the hype of the right-angle-rig. Regardless of how the top knot is attached, the weight of the fly and dropper are going to pull the line down. And I pretty much use an indicator similar to how they're describing- attached to the short mono but section between fly line and leader. A quick mend to get the flies down and another to put about 4" to 6" of line downstream from the indicator with the rest upstream results in a deep fished fly with just enough tension between the fly and indicator to show strikes. I prefer a foam strip indicator (easily made with a $0.30 o-ring, some 1/8" foam strips, and tying thread) to thing-a-ma-bobbers, bobbers, foam indicators, etc... They seem more sensitive to strikes. But that's just my opinion. This setup works well enough for me that I doubt I'll change.

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PostPosted: January 10th, 2019, 10:33 pm 
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Joined: October 16th, 2002, 12:00 am
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Location: Windham
Dave, I’m not sure it’s hype but the advantages of not using a tapered leader below the indicator is huge. It’s less about the knot and the attachment to the indicicator that makes it a “right angle” and more about the fact that 4-5x hanging off it drops way quicker than say 2x size of a 9ft leader. You can mend all you want, but the thinner diameter gets down quicker and has significantly less drag, resulting in less mending, etc.

I found the big advatage was fishing the heads of runs. After watching a friend pound a really fast run I noticed that by the time he threw his initial mends and worked his stick and eventually the flies were in the zone; he missed the first 10 feet of the run. Same with the next guy. This rig can work those sections incredibly. My catch ratio when I started using it in places I’ve fished forever increased because I could fish more water. Just my .02.

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"If you want to save a species, simply decide to eat it. Then it will be managed - like chickens, like turkeys, like deer, like Canadian geese. " Uncle Ted


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PostPosted: January 10th, 2019, 10:44 pm 
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Joined: December 4th, 2001, 1:00 am
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Location: Near the tying bench
That may be part of it. I step down leader sizes pretty quick after the indicator, mainly because I replace leaders 1 once per year, continually adding tippet as the season progresses and the original leader gets shorter. The tapered section on my leaders typically steps down within 3 ft or so, and run 3-5 feet of 4x to my top fly and 2 ft to the dropper. Because I’m cheap- the 4x is usually spliced 4-5 times by the end of the season (double surgeons knot). It works.

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"You never miss the water until the well runs dry" - traditional blues


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PostPosted: January 11th, 2019, 7:43 am 
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Joined: February 14th, 2007, 1:00 am
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Location: New Hampshire
FL is exactly right, I think this meathod gets my flies in the strike zone for 30% more of the drift.


To hunters point, I use exactly 1 leader a year and just keep adding to it. Maybe an extra one a year if I am fishing a lot of dries.

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"Fishermen...spending their lives in the fields and woods...are often in a more favorable mood for observing her, in the intervals of their pursuits, than philosophers or poets even, who approach her with expectation." - Thoreau


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PostPosted: January 11th, 2019, 8:24 am 
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Joined: December 2nd, 2001, 1:00 am
Posts: 1249
Location: Fairfield, ME
Granger, when I nymph rig for larger streams/rivers (wading) I nymph with a sink-tip line. Or I used to, often now I just add a fast-sink poly leader to my floating line. Poly leaders are working so well for me I may have bought my last sink-tip line.

Anyway, for nymphing larger streams/rivers a 4-6 foot fast sinking tip fly line with 3 to 4 feet of 3X tied to my first fly is my weapon of choice. I can easily swing wets and streamers with it as well as nymph.

I seldom fish one area or pool of a river. I prowl up and down the river and this rig lets me fish riffles, runs and pools without having to change up and adjust my leader length and size.


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PostPosted: January 11th, 2019, 5:11 pm 
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Joined: January 24th, 2002, 1:00 am
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Location: Lyons, CO
I actually run much shorter on my rigs sometimes, fishing nymphs to the bank from a boat. E.g. we've had days where we just hammered fish on big stones only 18 inches or 2 feet under a TMB. And I try to run 4X fluoro as much as possible. When I finally hook my pig, I intend to have the tools to get the job done. I will run deeper occasionally, but typical rig is whatever leader I have to TMB, then ~3 feet of 4X fluoro to a heavy weighted stone (between a 6 and 16) then 2 feet of 5X fluoro to something natural colored and small (e.g. a size 20 baetis or midge when they are on the menu).

I think the right angle rig advantage is probably mostly from having indicator tight to flies for more of the drift. That 2X or 3X is getting swept around in the current while the 5X cuts straight through. It's the same thing that I think drives people to use shot more. I just really dislike using lots of fine tippet with lots of shot. I'm casting my flies still usually.

But I was better at nymphing 15 years ago than I am now, so what do I know.


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PostPosted: January 14th, 2019, 5:38 pm 
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Joined: August 23rd, 2010, 6:49 pm
Posts: 98
Location: Rangeley Plantation, mooselookmeguntic
Good points on getting the thickness of the leader down to 4x right after the indicator. makes whatever you use for weighting the rig more effective and I find I need to use less weight vs a standard long tapered leader approach.


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