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 Post subject: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 9:01 am 
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Location: Harrison
What are your top dry patterns for size 22 or smaller?
Is it true that duns should be tied one size larger than the naturals?

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 9:09 am 
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Joined: December 2nd, 2001, 1:00 am
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Location: Ellsworth
For my #22’s my top fly is a Parachute Adams or BWO.

For #24’s I tie a Red Thread Midge ( just Hackle.....no wings) or Cream Thread Midges. No tail.....thread body, grizzly Hackle. You can tie this easily in #26’s too.

Dave M

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 4:57 pm 
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Thanks Dave,
I haven’t attempted parachutes at the vise yet but will be trying those thread midges.
I’ve tied plenty of #20s in various patterns but never smaller, mostly because I rarely seem to need them in Maine.
I’ll be on a heavily pressured water out west in a few weeks which seems to favor very small bugs.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 6:12 pm 
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Joined: December 2nd, 2001, 1:00 am
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Location: Ellsworth
MA......

For Out West make sure you tie up at least a dozen #24 Sulphur Spent Spinners. That’s a killer fly out there.

Hook: TMC 100
Thread: Gordon Griffiths Sheer 14/0
Tail: xt long Coc de Leon
Body: Tying Thread
Thorax: Black Superfine
Wing: White or Clear Z-Lon

Dave M

PS: As Homer Simpson says, Doh! I forgot to say the thread color is pale primrose yellow

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 7:21 pm 
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Joined: September 28th, 2003, 12:00 am
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I tie Griffiths Gnats in 20-26. Some are standard with Peacock heel and Grizzly hackle. Others are done with various thread colors for a base and dun or other hackle shades.
Very easy and quick. Imitates clusters and/or singles. Easy to see on the water also.
Ron

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 8:09 pm 
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Don’t forget CDC wings for small flies. It makes life much easier than trying to find #26 hackle, in my opinion.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 7th, 2018, 8:41 pm 
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Joined: December 5th, 2001, 1:00 am
Posts: 5278
Location: Manchester, ME
Griffith's Gnat

Buzz Ball

Parachute Adams

All CDC emerger (CDC tied in by the tip, twisted, and wrapped as a body, CDC wing)

Antron caddis/midge. Dubbed body, Floating wing caddis style, grizzly hackle. Black, gray, cream, all with a white wing.


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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 6:04 am 
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Jeff,

Have you had much luck with cdc bodies? I got really into cdc in France, but found it hard to beat just a F fly. It was hard to match body colors because they take on water and shift countless shades darker.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 10:38 am 
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Joined: January 24th, 2002, 1:00 am
Posts: 2340
Location: Lyons, CO
para adams for sure
brooks sprout

And I still have a few of my ninja midge emergers from back when I had time to tie, which is kind of like a brooks sprout
Size 24 hook
Black thread body with silver or red wire rib
foam post tied forward, towards the eye
1 or 2 wraps of tiny grizzly or black hackle

It's more or less a bead head midge with the bead head replaced by a foam post and tiny bit of hackle. It's a deadly midge emerger pattern, the kind that can outsmart smart fish eating midges in flat calm water, but you can't see it well at all. The body hangs below the surface, while the post sits above.

If I was tying, I would totally adapt a film critic to a midge in tiny size.


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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 10:59 am 
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Joined: July 21st, 2011, 9:30 pm
Posts: 832
Location: Brunswick
I've has good luck with small sparkle duns, but with a CDC wing. Either thread or biot for the body, CDC puff and a touch of superfine dubbing. Froggs Fanny on the wing only and that CDC will stick out like a sore thumb while the body sits just under the surface.
Also parachutes are much easier to tie then you think there are.. I figured them out pretty quickly last winter and was tying 22s in no time. Use the superglue method, it is MUCH easier. I will admit I hardly ever fish them... I can not see those paras on the water once I go smaller then 16.


Peter

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 1:50 pm 
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Location: Manchester, ME
TGIF wrote:
Jeff,

Have you had much luck with cdc bodies? I got really into cdc in France, but found it hard to beat just a F fly. It was hard to match body colors because they take on water and shift countless shades darker.



Yes, but in smaller sizes--16 and down--and mostly with olive bodies, where the color shift is not such a big deal. But also pale yellow and brown. If thread color matches CDC, I don't see huge changes i color.

What's a "F Fly"?


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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 2:49 pm 
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Location: New Hampshire
Hmmm... Olive was my issue... it just gets water logged, and turned to basically black. I even have some of that duck preen gland oil, that iddn't really help either.

F Fly is just a CDC caddis... my best was a grey biot body, natural or synthetic peacock herl thorax, to hold the wing up off the body, and then 2-3 cdc feathers as a caddis wing. Only downside is that you need about a dozen of them, as they get water logged, and lots of descant.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 2:50 pm 
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Location: New Hampshire
PS - ALWAYS natural grey cdc for the wing.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 7:35 pm 
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Joined: October 16th, 2006, 12:00 am
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Lots of good ideas here, thanks. I won’t tie em all but I’ll tie a lot.
Dave M, I trust your word on the West but don’t see Sulphers indicated on hatch charts for the water I’m hitting. There are Pmds, but certainly not that small? Yellow Sallies, but again, not 24s?
Tricos are definitely part of the equation, however, and I appreciate your insight on those...
Anyway, I’ve got a lot of work to do at the vice.

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 Post subject: Re: Micro dries
PostPosted: August 8th, 2018, 8:44 pm 
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Location: Manchester, ME
TGIF wrote:
PS - ALWAYS natural grey cdc for the wing.


Yes!

And some hints on the CDC for bodies. (1) Use the crappy CDC feathers that will not make good wings. (2) tied them in by the tips and trap a lot of fibers, not just a few. I tie in loosely about the midpoint of the feather, then draw the feather through the loose thread until I have most of the fibers trapped at the tip in the correct sized bundle. (3) Twist them tight before wrapping. Like winding up a rubber band airplane tight. This will give you a nice segmented body that seems to resist water better.

It's still a one fish fly. Once it's slimed, tie on another. They don't take long to make, and I can switch flies quicker than I can dry one out and get it floating right again.


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